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If Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphes La Crau, the Brunier familys cuve produced from the eponymous stone-covered plateau in Chteauneuf-du-Pape, has inscribed itself in wine lore over decades of superb, long-lived vintages, its no coincidence. It is made from ancient vinesseventy years old on average, with some sectors surpassing the century markfirmly entrenched in the appellations most celebrated terroir, where the seasoned roots of gnarled Grenache, Mourvdre, Syrah, Cinsault, and others dig through a thick layer of riverbed stones to access the coolness found deep beneath the sunbaked surface.
The Bruniers La Crau holdings, however, are not all mature enough to produce the intense, concentrated fruit that defines the La Crau bottling. Over the years, certain parts of the vineyard have been replanted, while missing vines here and there lost to natural causes have been replaced. The fruit from these younger vines is united in the Tlgramme bottling, which the Bruniers have produced since 2002, when an uncharacteristically rainy season gave what they feared would be a watered-down version of Vieux Tlgraphe. To their surprise, the newborn cuve was silky and seductive, providing so much immediate pleasure that customers begged them to make it again. Since then, it has become a mainstay of the Brunier lineup, offering a taste of the greatness of La Crau with less of the imposing structure that demands bottle age to reach a velvety apex. Today, the young-vine fruit is supplemented by splashes of old-vine Chteauneuf from sites a stones throw, so to speak, from La Crau, bolstering Tlgrammes complexity without sacrificing its plush, toothsome texture.
If Tlgramme is more about fruit than stones, it is still undeniably Chteauneuf, expressing the nobility of carefully farmed Grenache from the Rhnes finest terroirs. This unfiltered bottling from the excellent 2020 vintagea more classic, sun-filled year than that fateful 2002is one of the best editions to date, with sensual red fruit that is both mouth-filling and weightless, as luxurious as it is accessible. Perfect for enjoying now and over the next few years, it is an ideal match for whatever other fresh, seasonal flavors are on your plate.
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvdre, 4% Cinsault
Appellation: Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Country: France
Region: Southern Rhne
Producer: Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphe
Winemaker: Brunier Family
Vineyard: 40 years average
Soil: Alluvial deposits, Limestone, Silica, and Molasse (red clay) with galets rouls
Aging: Wine rests in cement tank for 10 months, and then ages for another 6 months in foudres
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 14.5%
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